Pilgrim, not Tourist

I don't think anyone can fully anticipate or appreciate exactly what it means to be in Jerusalem until they are actually there. Tel Aviv is approximately 50 miles from Jersualem, which was an hour bus ride, and on the way I was reminded strongly of Ephrata -- very dry, lots of dirt, some shrub-like plants, kind of empty. I was surprised to see trees that I can't identify specifically by name (which is a little embarrassing) but were definitley some sort of pine tree, which surprised me. Pine does not seem like a Jerusalem tree. Regardless, about 30 of the 50 minute bus ride was surrounded by this scenery. All of the sudden, the traffic gets a little heavier (the traffic is another post in and of it self, good grief) and you see that people actually live here, which is also similar to driving into Ephrata. But as you come up the hill the road kind of turns, and suddenly you can see the old city past East Jersualem and the biggest thing there is the Dome of the Rock. It is absolutely indescribable. It has a beautiful gold-covered roof (a gift from King Hussein of Jordan in the 90's) and is contrasted nicely by a tall steeple or two over to the right, and the Jerusalem Center and Hebrew University on Mt. Scopus to the left.

Sorry Grandma. Although similar, driving into Jerusalem definitely trumps Ephrata.

That first night, in our tired, jet-lagged state, we ate dinner out on the patio and watched the sun set over the old city. It's like having a constant postcard as your view. The view is even more magnificent this month: the Islamic holiday Ramadan began just a few days ago; a cannon is shot to signal sundown around 7PM each night, and as soon as it goes off, all of the Palestinians turn on twinkle lights that they use to decorate their homes and break their fast together. So attempt to imagine seeing the Dome of the Rock in Old Jerusalem at sunset surrounded by homes that are glowing with lights. It's absolutely incredible.

Today after some orientation meetings, we split up into groups of eight (there are a total of eighty-one students) and went with one of the faculty or their wives on a four-hour tour of the city. The Jerusalem Center is located in the Palestinian section of Jerusalem, or East Jerusalem. We walked through and saw various homes and shops in the midst of the Kidron Valley. Our guide, Sister Wilson, introduced us to the money-changer who always is willing to work with the Center (his name is Aladdin, pronounced Ah-la-DEEN, not like the movie), and while we were there we met a very funny man who passed out business cards for wood carvings, particularly nativity sets. "You'll want to come very soon before the rush; I like you, I take the Mormons' money." There were several business men throughout East Jerusalem who wanted us to come see their shops, or give us their business cards so that we would come back. I suspect most of us will go back to the nativity set man, and he will take more Mormons' money.

We entered Old Jerusalem on the east side and went through the Palestinian corridor, then the Christian, then the Jewish. It was very easy to tell when you were changing location within the city; although the people look the same, their shops and dress do not. We were able to go briefly into the Church of the Holy Sepulchure (we'll take a tour later), walked past the Garden Tomb (another future tour), and visited an Austrian hospice, where we climbed to the top and had yet another incredible view of the city from the roof. We exited on the east side, taking us to West Jerusalem, which is the Israeli portion of the city.

East and West Jerusalem had some stark contrasts not only in the individuals who occupy the different sections, but in the set up of the city. While the Palestinian section (East Jerusalem) was rather dirty and crowded, with lots of small run-down homes and buildings, West Jerusalem was clean with nice landscaping and arcitechure. It was obvious which people have money and which do not. Apparently there are also different building regulations for the different parts of the city -- they are not allowed to build more than three or five (our guide couldn't remember which) stories high in East Jerusalem, but they can in West. Apparently several buildings in East Jerusalem have been razed because of this law.

In our orientation meetings, the point was stressed that we do not want to be seen as tourists, especially American tourists. The people in Jerusalem think of us as the Mormon students (there is even a sign pointing to the "Mormon University") and they respect us that way. Unfortunately, America (and obviously, tourists) are not always well thought of in this city. We discussed as we saw various holy sites for many different religious sects that most people who have come in years past come to Jersualem on a pilgrimage -- they come because of their faith and devotion, not curiosity. Many people spent all they had to come to this city. Sister Wilson told us of a man she met who told her that he has made the trip to Mecca, and how proud he was of that accomplishment. That is the same kind of pilgrimage: a trip that is truly important, not just enjoyable. It means something more than a nice vacation. That's what we're doing here. Our time spent in the Holy Land is also a pilgrimage; we're here to learn on-site, not sight-see. It is a truly fantastic opportunity.